Notes
from the swamp:
The
Okefenokee swamp is not what I anticipated. Much of it is what I
would call marsh, tall grass and Cyprus trees, interlaced with major
and minor water courses and the occasional island. It's not a water
filled jungle. We are lucky in that all of the land surrounding the
State Park is Federal, and was closed due to the shutdown. As a
result there was no people pressure on the wildlife. One ranger told
me that he was seeing twice as many alligators as before the
shutdown. (about the only positive thing I heard about it.) That
said, this place is crawling with “nature”.We've had a flock of
turkeys come through the campsite three times today. There are
numerous little deer everywhere. I thought at first that the small
deer were Key deer, but I'm told they are White Tail deer and are
tiny because they have such a limited food source. At sunset every
night, there is a Horned owl that lets us know that he is around.
The
fun thing for me is learning new things, in this case it's Alligator
craft.
It
turns out that they are mostly a victim of bad press and their
forbidding personal appearance. If you are bigger than they are and
don't look like food, you're good to go. In a boat or kayak you are
plenty big enough and look nothing like food. Alligators have a
relatively small brain and work mostly on instinct. (about the smarts
of a fluffy bunny, but with teeth and the muscle to use them). Don't
however take Skippy (my term for small, barky dogs) on the water
with you as they most defiantly look like lunch. They post signs
about not taking pets in the water and the rangers say they get grief
about it all the time.... I took the yak out for about two hours
today, just to get a feel for the area. By count I saw 28 Alligators
today. The most unnerving part of the paddle was getting down the
cut to the river. The open water was only 6 -8 feet wide, with a few
more feet of Lilly pads on each side. Come to find out that gators
love to hide in Lilly pads, waiting for lunch to wander past...I
passed three and they never moved,just watched me go by with those
unblinking eyes that see everything. It was kind of like snakes.
That first instant when you brain identifies the shape and color that
your eye is seeing. I will say that they got my undivided attention.
At the end of the cut I paddled up behind two that were moving the
same direction I was. One of Jay's new rules of paddle craft is:
when approaching alligators from the rear, they have the right of way
and whatever speed they choose to go, that is the current speed
limit. See pic below. By the end of two hours, I was comfortable
(and respectful) sharing the water with them .
I
will say that at one point my heart skipped a beat...I was in deep
water just paddling along when my paddle struck a large underwater
object, that reacted to being struck. I don't really know for sure
what it was, but I have my suspicions
I
plan on going out again at first light tomorrow on a photo recon .
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